Tuesday 24 January 2012
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| One of the Churches in Camaguey |
It is amazing how much Spanish I have forgotten in the four years since I had to use the little I knew. I took some Spanish lessons during or before three of our other trips. This time I didn’t. That was a mistake. Just a small percentage of Cubans actually speak better English that I do Spanish. At least Elsa, who runs our Casa in Camagüey is very understanding and speaks slowly and makes sure I understand. If I had been smart, I would have taken lessons in Puerto Morelos before we arrived in Cuba. Next time I will know better, I hope.
Camagüey received its Unesco designation in 2008 as a result of its history as another one of the first seven towns founded in 1514, its labyrinth of streets, its many plazas and colonial buildings and churches. There are not as many tourists as Trinidad commanded, but there is lots to see and do in the town. Reports of purse snatchings and bicycle ride by robberies seem greatly exaggerated. We have had no problems whatsoever walking the streets both day and night. There are the usual people offering souvenirs and services, and the requisite number of beggars but no one has been very pushy. Usual a simple ‘no thanks’ will send the person on to another likely customer.
Monday I went to Etecsa, the Cuban telecommunication company, to use the internet, but found I was in the wrong office. I couldn’t understand the rudimentary directions the Etecsa personnel gave me to find the correct office. I was ready to return to our Casa and look up the address in our Lonely Planet when a kind lady who had just finished her business realized I didn’t understand where I was to go. She walked with me about six blocks right to the door of the Etecsa office with internet and just wanted a thank you for her efforts. I am not sure that would happen at home very often.
Camagüey has a very strong Roman Catholic presence but their religious beliefs do not seem to interfere with daily life. The recent code announced by the Separate School Board in Ottawa: no form fitting LuLu Lemon Yoga pants and no cropped tops that show a bit of belly, would not go over well in Camagüey. These are favoured outfits of the majority of Camagüeyan women, regardless of age or size. Miniskirts and black net stockings are popular for daytime and the evening wear. Noone could walk the uneven cobblestoned streets of Trinidad in the fashionable high heels worn in Camagüey.
Casa de la Trova Patricio Ballagas, the place for evening music, was a cut above the Case de la Trova in Sancti Spiritus. The musicians were more accomplished and the crowd was more formally dressed. At 10 Pm the action started. We were entertained by a group of two guitars, a bass, several percussionists and drummers, a woman flautist and a male and female singer. The audience danced with flair. One older woman, who must be a regular, danced every number by herself. One man, who had been dancing with a partner, joined her briefly. She was obviously more interested in dancing by herself. We returned for a second show Tuesday, but it wasn’t the same. The age of the crowd should have warned us, but we stayed for the first few numbers. It was a large group again, with a trumpet, saxophone, several guitars, drums and a girl singer. They each had solos the first number but they don’t seem to believe that the soloist should be heard. Most of the other musicians seemed intent on drowning the soloist out, at least that was my impression. Maybe I am just showing my age. There will be another night of music we enjoy before we leave Cuba.
We walked the streets of Camagüey, going from plaza to plaza, each with its church and restored colonial buildings. A local artist, Joel Jover uses Catholic themes in his work, combining traditional and modern themes. Both Jover and his wife Ileana Sánchez have had exhibitions in Toronto and in countries all over Europe. We visited both their atelier and their home to marvel over the riot of colour and variety of styles. Both are very prolific artists. Ileana prefers bright, almost cartoon characters, often combined in a collage of fabrics and other materials. Joel likes bigger works and works on series of similar themes. One we found interesting was his collages of beer can pieces and Madonnas.
Today we hired a taxi, a friend of our Casa Particular, to drive us to the Sierra del Chorillo, range of low limestone hills southeast of Camagüey. Rancho de Belén was a 60 km drive over less than perfect roads, in the middle of large nature preserve. We had arranged with Ecotur, which specializes in nature tours, to visit and explore the area on horseback. A group of about 20 Cubans were taking a 12 day course in Eco touring at the Rancho. They were on their mid-morning break, swimming in the inviting pool, when we arrived. We had neglected to bring bathing suits, so couldn’t join them.
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| Fiersom horns on these beasts |
Jorge took us out again for a walk in the forest this time. My horse decided early on that she was the boss and no amount of prodding from me would deter her from grazing on the grasses and to move beyond a lazy pace. Jorge finally had to take the reins of my horse and lead her behind his. Ray didn’t have the same problem but his horse was not interested in any fast pace either. Not having been on a horse very often our short 45 minute ride was enough for me. The horses were probably glad to return to the stables too. We had a look around in the stables before leaving. The ranch specializes in different breeds of horses and cattle, plus raises antelope and zebras, rather a different mix of animals. We had a longer day than we anticipated but a good one.








